Tuesday, December 29, 2009

PAM268 Panerai Radiomir 8 Days

The third Radiomir wristwatch that Panerai produced with an in-house movement is the Panerai PAM268. The white gold PAM200 and the platinum PAM201 were the first two Radiomirs with a P.2002 based movement - both are special editions from 2005. In my personal opinion, the 268 is one of the nicest Radiomirs that Panerai produces. But if the number of posts on watch boards about a watch is an indication of its popularity, then this particular Radiomir must be one of the most underrated Panerai watches.

Panerai PAM286 Radiomir 8 Days
Panerai PAM268 Radiomir 8 Days

There is much information to be found regarding the Luminor 1950 PAM233 - which has a similar (P.2002 based) hand wound mechanical Manifattura movement and a power reserve of 8 days. Information about the 268 however is scarce. It's quite odd, especially if you consider how good looking, functional and unique this watch is. Panerai produced only 400 units in the J-series (2007) and 600 units in the K-series (2008). To my knowledge, the watch is currently still in production.

Panerai PAM286 Radiomir 8 Days
Click the photos for a larger version

There are of course other Radiomir watches with an 8-day power reserve. The discontinued PAM190 is one example, but the two hardly compare. The 190 has a modified JLC movement (OP XIV), no date and no power reserve indication on the dial. The JLC movement is undoubtedly one of the finest movements around - but the P.2002 can easily compete and what's more, it's really Panerai - which does make it more interesting to me.

Panerai PAM286 Radiomir 8 Days and the PAM233
Panerai PAM268 and the PAM233 on the right

Both the 233 and the 268 have the horizontal power reserve indicator on the dial and both watches have a date function, sadly without a quick date change function. Besides the lack of the GMT function that is available on the PAM233, there is one other difference between the P.2002/3 movement used in the PAM268 and the P.2002/1 movement that's used in the PAM233 being that the P.2002/3 does not have a seconds reset function.

Panerai PAM286 Radiomir 8 Days and the PAM233
Case backs of the PAM268 and PAM233

The most obvious visual difference between the 268 and the 233 is of course the case. A Radiomir case with an onion shaped screw in crown, versus a Luminor case with the distinctive Panerai crown guard. Again, if posts about watches on the watch boards are an indication, it seems that the Luminor case Panerai watches are generally more popular than the Radiomir case watches. Perhaps it's because of the crown guard on the Luminors which is so typical for Panerai. Other important differences between the 268 and 233 are that the 233 has a domed crystal - which the 268 does not have - and the so called cyclops (magnifying lens) above the date at the nine o'clock position on the 268.

268 crown with Panerai OP logo
Detail showing the OP (Officine Panerai) logo on the crown and the "cyclops"

The straps on the 268 in these photos are after market straps (blue alligator by ABP and tan strap by Justin Chen). The original strap that comes with the watch is a black alligator strap with Panerai personalised steel large-size buckle.

A comparison

The table below shows an overview of the most noticeable differences and similarities.

case diameter45mm Radiomir44mm 1950's Luminor
case finishpolished stainless steelbrushed stainless steel
crystal1.9mm flat2.0mm domed
date magnificationcyclopsnone
GMTno24 hour
second resetnoyes
dial typeSandwich, no 3 or 9Sandwich, no 3 or 9
dial paintLuminovaLuminova
water resistance100m100m
case backsee through sapphire crystalsee through sapphire crystal
strap attachmentremovable wire loopslugs
strap width26mm24mm
strap changing1.4mm screwsnew push button mechanism
crownonion shaped screw incrown guard push down
movementin-house P.2002/3in-house P.2002/1
power reserve8 days8 days
power reserve indicatorhorizontal on dialhorizontal on dial

Panerai PAM286 Radiomir 8 Days

More photos of the 268 can be found on paneristipix.com.

Related posts

Twenty strap combos for a Panerai 233
PAM312 Luminor 1950 Marina 3-days
An iconic Panerai, the 232
PAM316 48mm Radiomir Tourbillon
An overview of posts about wristwatches on this site

All photos © 2009 M.Wilmsen - do not copy without permission
Thanks to TB for lending me the watch to take pictures

Saturday, December 19, 2009

Panerai photos in Slaets Magazine

A nice article about Panerai appeared in this month's Slaets Magazine. The article is mainly about the P.9000 models but it also touches the history of the brand. Two of my Panerai photos were used. I took these photos in June this year (2009).

Panerai photos in Slaets Magazine
Panerai PAM320 in Slaets magazine

The small inset on the second page of the article (below) shows the models PAM312, PAM320 and PAM321 next to each other.

Panerai photos in Slaets Magazine
PAM312, PAM320 and PAM321

Related posts

Watch photo publication in Watch Report magazine
PAM312 Luminor 1950 Marina 3 Days Automatic
PAM320 Luminor Marina 1950 3 Days GMT
PAM321 Luminor 1950 GMT Power Reserve

All photos © 2009 M.Wilmsen

Thursday, December 10, 2009

Linde Werdelin SpidoLite All Black

The (to me) most interesting new releases from Linde Werdelin are the additions to the current SpidoLite family of wristwatches. There are three new versions; the SA Rose Gold version (with black DLC details), the SA version and the SA All Black version (pictures). The cases are constructed out of grade 5 titanium - the only type of titanium that should be used for wristwatches in my personal opinion. The All Black version has a DLC (Diamond Carbon Like) coating that is highly scratch resistant.

Linde Werdelin SpidoLite All Black
Linde Werdelin SpidoLite All Black

All the SpidoLites have a skeletonized case, as well as a skeleton dial that partially shows the modified Andersen Genève movement - an automatic movement from the 1970's. Not necessarily a better choice, but surely a more interesting one than for instance the ETA based workhorses that you can find in many other watches - high end ones included. All three versions of the watch have a crystal case back so that you can see the engraved rotor in action.

The case has of course that very distinct Linde Werdelin shape with its angles and openings that allow you to attach the unique LW instruments. For instance the sea/dive instrument "The Reef" and the land/ski instrument "The Rock".

Linde Werdelin SpidoLite All Black
Linde Werdelin SpidoLite - click photos for a larger version

The All Black (DLC-ed) version has blue hour, minute and seconds hands that give the watch an even more unique look. I had the watch for a couple of days so that I could shoot the photos that you can see in this post. I have uploaded 24 pictures in total of this watch to the paneristipix.com photo database.

Each Linde Werdelin watch is linked to special art work, a sort of action figure. The SpidoLites are linked to a "cat woman" like figure as shown in the below photo. The way LW are marketing their products is as refreshing as the design of their watches.

Linde Werdelin SpidoLite All Black
SpidoLite artwork

The Rose Gold and All Black come as a special edition of 88 units. The SA version is a special edition watch of only 44 units. The watches come with a tapering Spido crocodile strap.

Linde Werdelin SpidoLite All Black - paneristipix.com
More photos are available on paneristipix.com

Related posts

Linde Werdelin 3-Timer steel automatic

All photos © 2009 M.Wilmsen, do not use without permission

Sunday, December 6, 2009

Straps by Jason & Sharon

Most Panerai strap makers are passionate Panerai collectors that started out making straps for their own watches as a hobby. Liang Yu Chang - better known as Jason amongst Paneristi - is no exception to this rule. He was introduced to the brand by his friend and well known strap maker Ted Su in 2003. Inspired by Ted's straps, Jason started to make his own straps in 2005.

PAM243 Jason & Sharon Panerai straps
Panerai PAM243

Sharon thought that Jason should start selling his straps and with the improvements suggested by their first local customers in Singapore - they now make good quality and affordable straps for customers all over the world. The quality of the leather is great - sourced from a tannery in Italy with 3rd generation experience. The alligator and crocodile hides are from a local (Singapore) tannery that also supply to Prada and Hermes.

PAM2 Jason & Sharon Panerai straps
Panerai 2A

Jason asked me to shoot a few photos for the Jason & Sharon website - which I did this weekend. I'm not done yet but I've uploaded the first results (21 photos) to paneristipix.com.

Buckles Jason & Sharon Panerai straps
Click the photos for a larger version

I have to say that I had never seen any of their straps in person before, but the quality looks great. The leather has a nice grain, it's quite soft to the touch and the stitching is flawless. Seems to me that the balance between price and quality is excellent.

Buckles Jason & Sharon Panerai straps

Related posts

An overview of posts about straps
Jason & Sharon gallery on paneristipix.com.

All photos © 2009 M.Wilmsen